Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Surfer Boys

Go strip off your clothes that are a nuisance in this mellow clime. Get in and wrestle with the sea; wing your heels with the skill and power that reside in you, hit the sea's breakers, master them, and ride upon their backs as a king should. - Jack London 

This girl traveled to the North Shore of Oahu... if I close my eyes and just sit, I can go back there. 

Click on images to enlarge
Sitting, feet completely buried in the coarse, cool sand.  A fine mist of rain cools things down a bit..clouds came and went.  This surfer guy walks past us and smiles, a local guy I think.  He sits nearby, watching the surf, just as we were.  I wondered what he was thinking, this surfer guy and his board. Waiting for the right time to get out there.  Funny thing was, I was imagining what it might be like if I was out there, a surfer girl.  I was thinking of those long summer days, so long ago.. sun kissed, beach loving, bikini clad, So Cal girl I once was.  Not thinking twice about challenging the ocean and it's power for a ride in the surf.  

I could almost touch a day much like this one, it being so real in my mind. 

Between glimpses of local boys and their boards falling and rising with the beat of the waves in turquoise surf, I'd fall back in to the dream of those beach days...catching a wave, no board needed, riding...fast! a powerful force of each mounting crescent...sometimes the perfect ride, sometimes tumbling, rolling...sometimes hitting bottom and walking dazed, but smiling to the shore.  

Back here, toes in the sand, I watch the surfer guy next to us grab his board and head out.  

I remember now, what it was...The blue of water and sky..the rhythmic pull of water crashing on the shore...I'm pretty sure that's why I came here to live out a wild adventure at 19. Just as these surfer boys rode these wild waves, small by Waimea standards, it was still a good show for us who came here to watch and dream.

Waimea, North Shore,  Sunset Beach "Pipeline"

Well I hope you understand, I just had to go back to the Island...

                                                             ~Leon Russell


  1. These are awesome shots, Kate. I've never been to Hawaii...I think I really need to get over my fear of flying! I also want to thank you for the comment on my blog. It meant a lot to hear a similar story. :-)

  2. OMG what a great addition to your page. LOVE the surfer guys and your creative writing. I was right there with you. The time back in the day when I was young and free. AND to think we may of crossed paths then! I think we did. I was the one in the green bikini with pink poka dots! Tan and in the sand all day...

  3. Nancy, I'm not so crazy about flying either, but I love to travel, so off I go. Deep breathing and a drink helps me get in the air!

    Janie..mostly 35th St at Newport, but all along the coast from Seal Beach to San Clemente! My fav was fluorescent green with rings! I have no doubt we crossed paths somewhere on those long days of summer. In Hawaii last week, I barely washed my hair..loved the saltiness and the crunch..remember? <3

  4. Wow, amazing surf and great photos!